Print Story Scafell Pike
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By nebbish (Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 05:39:02 AM EST) (all tags)
I had a week off work last week and went walking in the Lake District on Friday.


I climbed Scafell Pike with my old man and his mate Roger. I did it from Wastwater when I was sixteen and expected an easy climb, which couldn't have been further from the truth. We did one of Wainwright's favourites, starting at Seathwaite and walking up a long gill to Great End, a spectacular rock face at the north-eastern edge of Scafell. I was surprised after walks in the Pennines that there were no rock climbers around - I know the Lakes are geologically different, is the rock too friable?

Hard to get a sense of the scale from the photo, but it's pretty impressive. Wainwright says "This is the true Lakeland of the fellwalker, the sort of terrain that calls him back time after time, the sort of memory that haunts his long winter exile. It is not the pretty places - the flowery lanes of Grasmere or Derwentwater's wooded bays - that keep him restless in his bed; it is the magnificent ones. Places like Great End..."

I couldn't agree more.

Roger is a bit of a twitcher and wanted to see some ravens in their natural habitat, a bit of a rarity nowadays, and there they were, swooping and diving off the updrafts from the cliffs. Best of all, one of the new Eurofighters sped below us on training operations and disappeared behind the crags, the belated sonic boom sounding out from either side like something out of Mordor.

We went round the eastern side of Great End and clambered over acres of boulders and rubble cracked up by hundreds of thousands of years of frost erosion. My dad's on the left, Roger on the right

Roger fell between two boulders and sprained his wrist - lucky it wasn't his ankle, we'd have had to get the Mountain Rescue helicopter out. Actually, that would have been pretty cool.

From the top of Scafell Pike, the highest point in England, we could see Sellafield nuclear power station down on the Cumbrian coast, beyond that the Isle of Man in the middle of the Irish Sea (surprisingly near), and in the distance, faintly on the horizon, Ireland. To the north Scotland was clearly visible, and to the south I could make out Ingleborough in Yorkshire and Pendle in Lancashire. My dad reckoned you could see Wales "if you use your imagination a bit", but he's a bit of a joker like that. I have seen all the nations of the British Isles from one point before, from Snaefell on the Isle of Man - but not today.

My photos of all this show absolutely nothing. Crap camera, sorry.

The way down was the hardest and most visually stunning part of the walk. We climbed around the top of the glacial valley that separates Lingmell and Great Gable - big bloody mountains in their own right - which plunged very steeply, as glacial valleys do.

That's Lingmell on the left, in the background is High Seat, which I'm convinced I've climbed before though my dad can't remember it. Great Gable is on the far right.

I'm not a big fan of heights and found some of this section of the walk a bit nerve-racking. Any hill walkers out there will be familiar with the point where Walking suddenly becomes Scrambling, and what it's like to lose your way and think you have to hang onto a cliff by your fingertips, before backing up and finding a much easier route. I haven't got a photo of this bit as I was shitting myself, but my dad's got one of me clinging to a rock with a big false grin on my face, trying to look like I'm enjoying myself, screaming inside.

Great Gable from the top of the glacial valley, with High Seat behind. Again, I wish you could get a sense of the scale. Absolutely wonderful and I could have sat and looked at it for hours. Of all the views from the walk, we had this one for hours as we rounded the top of the glacial valley and it has really stayed with me.

Another view of Great Gable from a small tarn.

After we'd rounded the top of the valley it got a lot easier, following a different gill down to Seathwaite, where we started.

The stream in the gill started from Styhead Tarn, above. Some of the tarns and lakes in the Lake District are home to unique species of freshwater fish left behind after the ice age, which went on to evolve in isolation. I'm not sure if this is one of them. We saw what my dad reckoned might be rare wild flowers down a steep rock face earlier in the walk. The Lake District is a damn cool place.

I haven't done any proper hill walking like this since I was a teenager, but I intend to do a lot more after last week. It was one of the best days I've had in ages, and despite my vertigo I'm craving something a bit more challenging. Unfortunately mountains are a bit scarce in London but luckily I've got my dad up north who's keen on it himself. For the first time though I'm seriously considering learning how to drive so I can get out there myself.

I'm arranging another walk for bank holiday weekend, and can't wait.

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Scafell Pike | 28 comments (28 topical, 0 hidden) | Trackback
Bah by nebbish (2.00 / 0) #1 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 05:40:09 AM EST
Sorry about the big bastard photos. You'd think I'd at least be able to resize things properly...

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It's political correctness gone mad!


Climbing by gazbo (4.00 / 1) #2 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 05:50:36 AM EST
I don't know the area, and as you say it's very hard to get a sense of scale from the picture.  But two things spring to mind:
  1. The first picture looks like a lot of scrambling - nothing technical, just a long way up.
  2. If you're out climbing, you don't want a 45 minute walk to get to the bottom of the crag.  Especially if you're lugging an 80m rope and a full rack of gear (carabiners, cams, nuts etc) all the way - you'll be knackered before you get there!  I'm making the assumption that there's no road access nearby.


"Engarde!" cried the larvae, huskily. - Scrymarch



You are correct by nebbish (2.00 / 0) #3 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 06:00:51 AM EST
It was a fair walk to get that far. Actually quite a hard slog. Makes sense what you say.

I reckon you could scramble up the gully in the middle and maybe a couple of other points, but it was pretty steep. With the amount of scree though I was wondering if it'd be too crumbly to climb. Guess I'll have to do some geological research...

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It's political correctness gone mad!
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Just had a cursory Google by gazbo (4.00 / 1) #4 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 06:02:32 AM EST
It seems I was right - all the pages I found talked about routes with very low grade.  The hardest grade I saw listed was vdiff (very difficult).

Despite the name, a vdiff climb is actually pretty easy from a climber's point of view - the adjective grading system seems designed from the point of view of a non-climber, so a tough walk up some rocks (the sort of climb you'd do as a 7 year old larking about) is graded "moderate".

No point travelling to a location just to do a vdiff - unless you want to talk about how you've climbed Scafell Pike, of course.


"Engarde!" cried the larvae, huskily. - Scrymarch

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Gotcha by nebbish (2.00 / 0) #5 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 06:06:42 AM EST
Never really sussed all the grade stuff as just the sight of the word scrambling gives me the cold sweats. I'm a bit of a wuss when it comes to actually climbing on things.

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It's political correctness gone mad!
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Synchronicity by DullTrev (2.00 / 0) #6 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 07:01:38 AM EST

I haven't done any proper fell walking since I was a teenager, and I'm going off to do some this weekend. This site freaks me out sometimes.

Scafell Pike was the first fell walk I ever did - my dad believes in throwing you in at the deep end... But it worked, because it is such a spectacular walk that you remember it forever.

Great Gable is a lovely walk, too, and one I really like. Maybe I'll go to the Remembrance Day service again this year, I haven't done that for about 9 years now. Really special moment holding that service on top of a mountain.


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DFJ?


You again! by nebbish (2.00 / 0) #7 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 07:07:30 AM EST
Doppleganger!!

Hope you have a cool time, I certainly did. I quite fancy Great Gable after seeing it from afar, very spectacular. Didn't know about the Remembrance service.

Where are you going this weekend?

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I'm just unoriginal by DullTrev (2.00 / 0) #11 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 07:24:11 AM EST

Either that, or I'm stalking you with a week's delay.

Remembrance Service - it really is a powerful event. Far more moving than in a church.

I'm off up to Windermere this weekend, for some gentle walks with my father. Gentle because he's old, and I'm unfit. Then next weekend I'm off to the Peak District. But that's mainly for drinking...


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DFJ?
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Windermere's great by nebbish (2.00 / 0) #12 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 07:31:44 AM EST
Probably a lot nicer since they banned watersports as well (sorry Herring). I always fancied getting out to one of those islands.

My dad's getting on a bit as well, but I seem to be strangely fit (wasn't expecting that at all, I'm certainly not slim. Must be all the cycling). Didn't tire at all on the walk.

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It's political correctness gone mad!
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+1, Lake District walking... by Metatone (2.00 / 0) #8 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 07:11:33 AM EST
Some of those views brought back a bunch of memories, notably to me, from my teenage years too.

I should make the effort to go into the hills more often. The other week I rode my bike along the Trans Pennine Trail from here to Manchester. It doesn't really get you far from "civilisation" but even those short quiet bits in Longdendale were very calming.



It's really worth it by nebbish (4.00 / 1) #9 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 07:18:30 AM EST
I didn't realise how much I'd missed it until I went back. I enjoyed it a lot more than when I was a teenager as well - there were more, ahem, distractions back then and I don't think I appreciated it as much as this time.

That's quite some bike ride by the way...

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Distractions by gpig (4.00 / 1) #10 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 07:22:30 AM EST
Yes, I was distracted roleplaying games and Rubik's Cube too when I was younger! What, you meant something else? Really?
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(,   ,') -- eep
"This option is deprecated, as it is conceptually flawed." -- man psql
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Cool pics: looks impressive by R Mutt (2.00 / 0) #13 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 08:10:47 AM EST
Was vaguely thinking of doing some more walking since Ireland, but I think I'm basically too lazy.



Interesting vs boring walks by nebbish (2.00 / 0) #14 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 08:29:36 AM EST
I was getting fed up with walking, basically because my dad was taking me on so-so walks around West Yorkshire that involve traipsing across farms and up underwhelming hills. Going somewhere with spectacular scenery and a bit of a challenge is a different matter altogether - being a bit bored seems to contribute a lot to fatigue.

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Very cool! by ad hoc (2.00 / 0) #15 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 10:27:16 AM EST
Added to "places I'd like to visit but probably never will" list.
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Close friendships and a private room can offer most of the things love does.


I had been led to believe by komet (2.00 / 0) #16 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 10:53:20 AM EST
that the tranquility of the Lake District had been destroyed by the masses of people who go there to enjoy the tranquility of the Lake District. But it looks quite empty in your pictures. Is it because you went on a working day?

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<ni> komet: You are functionally illiterate as regards trashy erotica.


Busy at the top by nebbish (2.00 / 0) #18 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 11:07:11 AM EST
The number of routes mean people are spread out though - we only met two people on the way down. Scafell is one of the most popular climbs as well. I think it's been exaggerated a bit.

Villages and towns down by the lakes get really busy.

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Cool pics, by yicky yacky (4.00 / 1) #17 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 10:56:52 AM EST

especially the middle one.


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Done.


Ta [nt] by nebbish (4.00 / 1) #19 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 11:07:53 AM EST

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It's political correctness gone mad!
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Must get to England by greyrat (4.00 / 1) #20 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 12:25:04 PM EST
The Lake District and the Downs are two places I have to get to before I die. That and the lochs and Portmeirion.

Spectacular pictures.
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There is absolutely no correlation or causation amongst intelligence, power, talent and wealth.
Kha-Nyou


Thanks by nebbish (4.00 / 1) #22 Fri Aug 18, 2006 at 04:55:18 AM EST
Likewise, I want to see the Smokey Mountains and Monument Valley. And a lot else in the States besides.

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+1, Friggin' Beautiful! by MohammedNiyalSayeed (4.00 / 1) #21 Thu Aug 17, 2006 at 08:59:11 PM EST

Makes me miss fog. And clouds. And weather. And hillsides that aren't on the verge of catching on fire 9 months out of the year.


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You can build the most elegant fountain in the world, but eventually a winged rat will be using it as a drinking bowl.


Weather by nebbish (4.00 / 2) #23 Fri Aug 18, 2006 at 04:59:58 AM EST
I'd have problems living somewhere that was warm all the time. Completely unnatural. Give me rain and grey skies...

I'm glad summer only lasts a couple of weeks over here.

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It's political correctness gone mad!
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I'm running into a genetic conflict by MohammedNiyalSayeed (4.00 / 1) #24 Fri Aug 18, 2006 at 10:34:15 AM EST

where every cultural indicator points to the conclusion that I should love the same warm, sunny conditions every day of the year, while the island-dwelling instinct of my ancestors tells me I need fog year round, sprinkled with intermittent rain. Try as you may to tell yourself you're in Weather Paradise, you find yourself missing Weather Purgatory. It's a little fucked up.

Good news, though; it's foggy here this morning!


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You can build the most elegant fountain in the world, but eventually a winged rat will be using it as a drinking bowl.
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Low quality crash space by CwazyWabbit (4.00 / 1) #25 Sat Aug 19, 2006 at 05:23:00 AM EST
now available in M'cr :) I'd be interested in some local walks too, now I'm a local person.

I do like the photos too.



Good to hear from you mate! by nebbish (2.00 / 0) #26 Mon Aug 21, 2006 at 04:40:18 AM EST
You're back in Manchester then? I'll have to give you a shout. Whereabouts are you living?

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Halfway to the M60 on the north side by CwazyWabbit (4.00 / 1) #27 Mon Aug 21, 2006 at 02:13:29 PM EST
Details would be forthcoming by less public means if required :) I need to get some extra keys cut, and have no real beds but I only said crash space. Shout if you need it whenever.

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Cheers by nebbish (2.00 / 0) #28 Tue Aug 22, 2006 at 04:49:49 AM EST
But I meant I'll have to give you a shout if I'm in Manchester anyway, we can go out and have a pint or four :)

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Scafell Pike | 28 comments (28 topical, 0 hidden) | Trackback